Tuesday, December 17, 2013

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas

This past Sunday, Shelley, Emma and I took an afternoon trip outside of Paris to Château Vaux le Vicomte, located just outside of Melun, France. Nicolas Fouquet, the head financier of King Louis XIV, bought the small castle in 1641. Within 20 years he had bought the two small adjacent villages and transformed the small castle and its surrounding land into a beautiful château and garden. Fouquet enlisted the help of the architect Louis Le Vau, the painter Charles Le Brun and the landscape gardener André Le Nôtre to create a comprehensive plan that encompassed their three expertise. This was the first time that three different crafts were employed together to create one collaborative design. Louis XIV was so taken by the design and aesthetics he hired the three men to design a much larger and more elaborate château: Versailles. The style of both Châteaus is known today as the "Louis XIV style" and you can see that the similarities between the two are vastly apparent, especially in the gardens.
Château Vaux le Vicomte
Shelley, Emma and Me

For the month of December the Château is completely decorated for Christmas inside and out! Christmas music plays in the foyer and the smell and feel of a warm fire softly burning in the fireplaces envelopes you as you enter the rooms.  Each room was decorated according to a theme, one room prettier than the next. The whole place felt like Christmas and it was so nice to leave Paris for a little and enjoy the fresh air and scenery. The photos don't do the Christmas trees any justice, but hopefully you'll get a little idea of how beautiful it really was!
Merry Christmas!

Tuesday, December 10, 2013

Christmas Markets

Christmas markets start popping up in European Cities in late November/early December. The Markets are always open for the four weeks of Advent and most continue through Three Kings Day (January 6). Dating back to the Late Middle Ages, Christmas Markets began in the German speaking region of Europe. The markets are usually held in the Town Square or along large pedestrian areas and can be quite large! While wandering past the many stands you will always find food, drinks, gifts and seasonal Christmas items. Today, Christmas Markets have grown in popularity and can be found throughout Europe. The Markets stick to traditional food and drink and homemade goods, allowing the visitors to experience an old world Christmas feel.
Christmas Market Stands from Germany, Copenhagen and Paris

Over the past few years I have been to a couple of Christmas markets and they always seem to get me in the holiday spirit! These include:
  • Prague- Held in the Old Town Square, we were there the opening weekend and it really put my friends and me in the Christmas spirit. They had a petting zoo with the cutest animals and  these really amazing pastries that they made over a fire in front of you.
  • Berlin & Munich- Berlin was the first stop on my Dad's and my 2010 Winter European road trip. It is also where our impromptu Christmas Market tour began. In Germany, each Market has its own Glühwein mug, with the Market name, year and design. We now have quite the collection!
  • Salzburg- Held in Cathedral Square, this market was rather cute. Performances by traditional choirs and school groups throughout December add to the allure of the Market and add to the spirit of Christmas.
  • Tivoli (Copenhagen): The Tivoli Gardens are transformed into a winter wonderland for advent! The decorations (the light plan is designed by Tiffany's head designer), planning and thought that go into this market is insane and a must see!
Christmas Market Decorations

A staple in Christmas markets across Europe is Glühwein, or mulled wine. It is typically served hot and made with red wine and an assortment of spices such as cinnamon sticks. cloves. star anise, citrus zest, sugar and sometimes vanilla. Glühwein, which means "glowing wine" in German, got its name from the hot iron stems that were once used to warm the wine. It is uncertain how long Glühwein has been around, but the first Glühwein tankard, or mug, dates back to 1420!
Bratwurst & Glühwein: Christmas Market Staples

This past Sunday, I added a Parisian Christmas Market to my list and headed to the Champs Élysées! Meandering up and down the street I passed by stands selling handmade Christmas handicrafts, made in France products and tons of food and drink stands...everything looked so good! Needing to continue my Christmas shopping and wanting to make sure that all gifts were made in France, the market proved to be the opportune place to pick up a few things while practicing my French.
Handmade soap, French Chocolate & fresh lavender

Christmas Markets represent what the Christmas season means: spending good, quality time with friends and family and enjoying the moment. As much as I enjoyed the Paris Christmas Market, I prefer the markets in Germany and Copenhagen.There is something extra special and Christmas-y about enjoying warm food and drinks huddled around a fire pit watching the snow fall and the people pass.

Sunday, December 1, 2013

Eat every macaron as the last

France is well known for its amazing food and pastries, especially the Macaron, that petite, delicate and colorful confection composed of two almond meringue shells surrounding a flavored filling.
Ladurée Window Display

The history of the macaron may be contested but most believe that the macaron cookie was introduced in 1533 in Italy by Catherine de Medici's chef around the time of her wedding to Henry II, the future king of France. However, it was not the "sandwich" that we know today, but instead a simple cookie made of almond powder, sugar and egg whites. It wasn't until the early 20th century when Pierre Desfontaines, Louis Ernest Ladurée's second cousin, decided to sandwich two macaron cookies together by filling the center with a ganache that the modern macaron was created. Today, they are the most popular selling "cookie" in Paris and you you can find them in nearly every flavor and color imaginable at most patisseries and shops. Two of the most famous Macaron shops in Paris are Ladurée and Pierre Hermé. Therefore, for the sake of the blog, a macaron taste test was deemed mandatory. Shelley and I set out to discuss which ones we prefer.
Carette Macarons
(L-->R salted butter caramel, coffee, vanilla & Gianduja)

It is very difficult to get a perfect macaron. Not only do the measurements need to be extremely precise but a little bit of "know-how" is also needed, which is why the same quality macaron is almost impossible to find outside of France. Typically, the shells are made with egg whites, sugar and almond powder and the filling is usually made up of a ganache, butter cream, or jam. When made right, the macaron is crisp on the outside and slightly moist in the interior, allowing it to melt in your mouth.
The Anatomy of a macaron (Le Nôtre Chocolate macaron)

Ladurée is one of the top shops, boasting sales of over 15,000 macarons per day! In 1862 Louis-Ernest Ladurée opened a bakery in Paris, which later burnt down and was rebuilt. During the time of the rebuilding, cafés were gaining in popularity. Therefore, to adapt with the changing times, Ladurée’s wife came up with the idea to blend a patisserie and café, opening the first salon de thé. However, it wasn't until the 1930s when Pierre sandwiched the macaron, that Ladurée became famous. Ladurée's macarons are delicious, light and airy. They continuously come out with new flavors for the changing seasons. Some of their flavors are a little too sweet or strong for my taste and the idea of a marshmallow filling doesn't sit well, but I have yet to find a vanilla macaron I like better than theirs.
Praline, Rose Peppercorn, Café, Gingerbread, Pistachio & Vanilla

Pierre Hermé is tied with Ladurée for the best macarons. Hermé originally worked for Ladurée and when he left he opened his first store in Tokyo, as his contract forbid him to open in Paris. However, he returned in 2002 and has since gained quite the reputation. Here is where you can try macarons with a twist such as violet-vanilla blackcurrant, passion fruit, truffle or even foie gras, He is not afraid to blend flavors and because of this, it is quite the experience to visit. As I tend to air on the side of caution and this was a comparison test, Shelley and I stuck to his classics and twists on the classics. His macarons were light and airy and provided just the right amount of flavor without being too overwhelming. I really enjoyed the violet-vanilla blackcurrant and we both liked his salted-butter-caramel. When I return I may opt to go a little more out of the box (although the foie gras macaron will take a lot of convincing). 
Pierre Hermé Macarons
(L--R Salted butter caramel, violet-vanilla, rose & chocolate)






Ladurée and Pierre Hermé are obviously not the only Macarons, but they are the most well-known and worth the splurge when you're here. One thing is for certain, when in Paris splurge and have a macaron (or a few) as they are not the same elsewhere!