Tuesday, December 18, 2012

København


After our semester was over and before I flew home, Shannon, two of her teammates and I went to Copenhagen for the Tivoli Christmas market. In December there is very little sunlight, we only had around 5 hours of “daylight” a day, but it was mostly grey and rainy so it didn’t really make a difference! We arrived Saturday evening and went to dinner. Sunday was jam packed with touring.
We started off at Lagkagehuset, a well-known bakery for breakfast. We had danishes and “snail” pastries. After we climbed Rundetårn, known as the round tower.  The tower was built in the 17th century under Christian IV as an astronomical observatory. Instead of stairs we circled up to the top on a sloped ramp. Copenhagen is known as the City of Spires, due to the relatively flat skyline with few towers and spires piercing the horizon, which could be seen from the top of the tower.
View from the Tower

As we made our way throughout the city we walked down Østergade the main shopping street. In one of the squares off the street we found a small Christmas Market, which reminded me a lot of the typical German and Austrian Markets.  We then made our way to Nyhavn, a 17th century waterfront and canal that is dotted with many colorful bars and cafes. This strip is probably one of the most photographed sections of Copenhagen and even in the rain it was beautiful.


It was finally time for the Tivoli Christmas market! Located in the Tivoli Gardens, it is one of the most famous Christmas Markets in Europe. We wanted to go in the late afternoon/early evening to see the Market lit up. The Market was so large and unlike other Christmas Markets that I have been to! Over 50 stands were in the shape of mini houses and they sold a wide array of food including pastries, Glühwein, crepes and waffles. We found one stand that sold pulled pork and Danish Meatball sandwiches that were delicious. After eating we began to walk taking in the sites. As it got darker and the lights came on, it became even prettier. This year’s main theme was Russian Christmas and in the center of the Tivoli Square was a Russian village and St Basil’s Cathedral. The rest of the Market had the Nordic Theme, so thousands of bells, ornaments and lights hung from the pine trees and houses twinkling at night providing the perfect Christmas atmosphere!
Shannon and I at Tivoli

Sunday morning we went in a totally different direction and headed to Freetown Christiania, a self proclaimed autonomous neighborhood in Copenhagen. Freetown started in 1971, when locals began to take over the Military barracks. The Christiania Law of 1989 governs the area and their nine main laws include no hard drugs, no guns or bulletproof vests, no fighting, no gangs and no private cars. It is definitely not somewhere that I would picture myself going because it cannot be further from my likes and my style, and the four of us couldn’t have looked more out of place, but it was interesting to see. After we headed for lunch we walked around a little more and caught our plane back to Milan. 
Bikes in Christiania. The bike on the left is the Christiania Bike

Copenhagen was a beautiful city and the people were so friendly and helpful. It was a great place to go for a quick weekend trip and with all the Christmas markets and Christmas themed decorations it really got me in the holiday spirit! Throughout the city there were Christmas decorations everywhere, including hundreds of red hearts. We asked a girl why there were so many hearts and she replied “It’s Christmas!” and when we asked why the hearts she replied that Christmas is love. I think that pretty much sums up the Christmas Season perfectly!  
Heart Tree at Tivoli

Friday, December 14, 2012

It's Christmas Time in The City!

Wednesday marked the half way point in my masters program! It's hard to believe that the semester is already over and I am going back to the states in a few short days. With all the papers handed in, presentations given and tests taken my friends and I were able to go into the city and enjoy Lugano at Christmas time! Wednesday night, to celebrate the end of our semester, we went to the city for aperitivo and dinner.

Without Thanksgiving, Christmas decorations start appearing rather early. The window displays have been up for a while and the advent calendars were on sale in early November. Starting December 6, on the feast of Saint Nicholas, the bakeries begin selling Grittibänzen, also known as "Christmas bread men." The bread tastes like challah and are sometimes baked to look like Santa Claus. They usually use raisins for eyes and some hold twigs and pine. Mine, below, looks more like a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle, and his raisin eyes were swallowed in the baking process.
Christmas Bread Man from Munger

The city strings up Christmas lights throughout the streets and wraps the trees surrounding the lake for the holidays. It is so pretty and festive at night with everything lit up!
Christmas Season in Lugano!

In the piazza they have a huge Christmas tree that they decorate with gold ornaments and lights. A tree lighting ceremony on December 1, which I couldn't attend, marked the beginning of the official Christmas Season!
Christmas Tree!

The Christmas Market takes place from December 1 to January 6. In the main Piazza they set up an ice skating rink and a mini Christmas market. The stands sell food and drinks such as crepes, pretzels and hot spiced wine.
The rink, stands and lit trees in the back

Friday morning, my last full day in Lugano, I awoke to a snow covered city! Jeannie and I went to the center to walk around the Christmas Market. We got crepes from one of the many vendors and then went to our favorite cafe, Grand Cafe Al Porto, for tea, since we were freezing.
Cinnamon Sugar Crepe!

This has been an amazing semester and I cannot believe it's already over! I am so glad I met the friends I did! Lugano has really begun to feel like home, so although I'm excited to return to the states for a little, I am very much looking forward to come back to Lugano for a few more months!
Merry Christmas!!

Saturday, December 8, 2012

For Coffee Lovers Only

So here I was thinking that ordering coffee in Europe would be the same as the US, and I was wrong. European coffee names are not the same as what America (and Starbucks, which I still love) has led us to believe. Therefore, in Lugano and other non-touristy cities you must be sure of what you're ordering. This past semester I've come to learn the actual differences in the multitude of espresso based drinks, through some trial and error. People have their one size only coffee in the cafe or bar and therefore to-go cups do not exist. I'm still trying to comprehend the reason behind this, and am currently unsure if I ever will. Therefore, I am ordering a large coffee to go right when I return to the states!

Un Caffe
Also known as espresso in the states, it is the basis of the specialty drinks described below. Espresso is just hot water run through coffee beans in a very concentrated manner. It has a higher caffeine volume than most beverages. In Europe, espresso is the caffeine drink of choice in the afternoons and after meals because you are not supposed to have hot milk after you eat. I don't like espresso and therefore, do not follow that rule.

Latte Macchiato:
Latte Macchiato literally means stained milk. Therefore, there is only about half a shot of espresso- not even a whole shot!! It took me a little while to realize this and have since stopped ordering it- because 1/2 a shot is not enough to get me through the day....The Latte Macchiato consists mostly of foam, rather than milk, and they make it by adding warm milk, espresso and than topping the rest off with milk, creating the layered effect seen below. The latte macchiato tastes more like a latte that you would get in the states. However, if you order a "latte" you will receive just hot milk, I can luckily say that I have not made that mistake!
Latte Macchiato and a berliner from Al Porto

Cappuccino 
The most popularized espresso drink. It's equal parts espresso (1 shot), milk and foam. The espresso is added first, followed by the hot milk and topped with foam. Sprinkled on top is usually cinnamon or chocolate, but here in Switzerland, they naturally choose chocolate. Originally cappuccinos were usually consumed in the morning as part of breakfast, however, now people order them in the afternoon at cafes as well.
Cappuccino and Raspberry Tart from Al Porto

Caffe Latte
This is just espresso added to hot milk. Out in restaurants and cafes they add just a little bit of foam to top the drink off. The Caffe latte is much stronger than the macchiato due to less milk and more espresso, which I personally prefer. It is usually ordered in the morning with breakfast. This has become my caffeine drink of choice, due to the stronger espresso taste.
Caffe Latte from Al Porto